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It is necessary to take some precautions when planting plants in the garden. It is the root system above all that must be protected for an assured recovery. Let's study the main principles to get the best results.
I avoid planting in midsummer or in frost
The lack of water, due to drought or frost, prevents the plant from developing rootlets (small secondary roots) ... The best times for planting are autumn and winter, as long as the soil is not frozen. Spring planting is possible if the shrub is in a container or in a clod.
I choose the exhibition with care (sun, partial shade or shade)
Each plant has specific sun needs. Full sun is necessary for the proper development of certain species (olive and other fruit trees for example). On the other hand, the sun "burns" the leaves of so-called shade or even partial shade plants (observe the logos on the labels).
I think about the size of the adult plant
Sometimes, we are surprised, a few years after the planting of a dwarf conifer that it already exceeds 5 meters ... The size of the adult plant is indicated on the sales sheet. It is therefore necessary to adapt the chosen location so as not to be forced later to tear off or severely trim the subject.
I take into account the nature of the garden soil
The nature of the soil greatly influences the adaptation of plants to each garden. The soil can be acidic, or rather basic (limestone). It can be very dry, or on the contrary always fresh to wet. Many trees are tolerant of the diversity (of pH) of soils. Some, on the other hand, are specific to acidic soils (azaleas, rhododendrons) while others need moisture around the roots (bald cypress, alder). It is possible to improve the quality of the soil to introduce a more delicate species, for example azaleas by creating pits of heather earth…
I plant plants in the garden: the steps
First make a hole wider and deeper than the container or the volume of the roots (if the plant is bare roots). The bottom of the cavity is loosened to obtain good contact of the root system with a substrate of small particle size (earth particles less than 5 mm in size). The deep layer consists of a mixture of garden soil with potting soil and organic fertilizer (compost for example) with a thickness of about 10 centimeters. If the plant is in a container, it should be watered before removing the pot. We claw the root ball to untangle the roots. If the plant is in bare roots, the ends of the roots are cut off and coated with a mixture of garden soil, organic fertilizer (cow dung or manure) and water (praline). The plant is then placed in the middle of the hole, the collar (junction between the root and the stem) having to be at ground level. The vacuum is filled with the amount of soil required. We then cup with the foot. Finally, we model a small bowl around the stem to facilitate watering.
I don't forget to water after planting
It is necessary to water first at the time of planting, even if it is raining, to pack the soil and ensure contact between it and the roots. Then, it is necessary to continue watering - especially the first year -, at regular intervals, avoiding excess, and taking into account periods of drought, including in winter.
I stabilize the plant if necessary
Do not hesitate to stabilize the plant by staking it or by guying it (fixation of the subject by one or more links starting from the ground and connected to the trunk). Indeed, if the rootlets suffer from the vibrations of the root ball, the plant becomes exhausted and eventually dies. Find all the mistakes to avoid in your garden.